Glasgow Gallivanting: January 2017

Celtic Connections

Celtic Connections logoIf you live in Glasgow, you have about two weeks to get over the hedonism of Christmas and New Year when – ooft! – it’s Celtic Connections! This bills itself as “the largest annual winter music festival of its kind and the UK’s premier celebration of Celtic music” and we throw ourselves into it with enthusiasm, usually attending half a dozen or so gigs over the 19 days.

This year, in six concerts we heard musicians from Scotland, England, Ireland and America (and that’s quite a conservative selection) in five different venues ranging from the formal concert hall, via the Old Fruitmarket, to the iconic Barrowland Ballroom. Highlights? So hard to choose but, if pushed, I’d go for Phil Cunningham’s Highlands and Islands Suite. Phil, his accordion, and a front-row of other professional musicians were supported by students from the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland – its Traditional Musicians, Chorale and Symphony Orchestra. There must have been 150 people on the stage and the music soared. When I said to John at the interval that I had been moved almost to tears I half expected a scornful look, but he agreed. It wasn’t only the evocatively Scottish music, there was also something so heart-warming about a stage full of young people working hard to perfect their art – having chosen to do so in our city.

Gluttony

Celtic Connections is pretty hard on the waistline – all those pre-theatre meals – and it’s not helpful that Burns Night falls slap bang in the middle. This year, we ate our haggis, neeps and tatties with friends in the Curlers, a local pub-restaurant. We have also been tempted by two large boxes of Chinese rose pastries, a new year gift from one of John’s Chinese colleagues. Definitely yummy – ooh, I need to walk all this off, but…

Queen Elizabeth Forest Park

…oh dear, we haven’t had much in the way of country walks: only one that I can remember, in Queen Elizabeth Forest Park. This time last year, we spotted red squirrels from the wildlife hide. This time they were not to be seen, though there were plenty of birds about.

Exhibitions

We managed a couple of exhibitions in January. One Glasgow museum, the Burrell Collection, has recently closed for refurbishment and in the meantime some of its paintings are on show at another, Kelvingrove. The current exhibition is of work by Joseph Crawhall (1861-1913), one of a group of radical painters known as The Glasgow Boys. Girl on a bicycle has long been one of my favourites – just look at the little dachshund excitedly running alongside – but there was plenty more to see, and will be until 1st July if you are in the area.

We also saw an exhibition in the Lighthouse called A Life in Letterpress. Typographic artist Alan Kitching began his working life apprenticed to a printer, before becoming a technician at Watford College, then a teacher, designer and artist. In an age of computer design, he continues to create using wood and metal letterforms. The results are stunning! On till 5th March.

The last bit

New Year, new blogging resolution – to have a round-up post like this at the end of every month. How long will it continue? My last new series (People Make Glasgow) lasted for approximately (ahem, exactly) one post, and I’m already almost a week late with this one, so we’ll see.

I also wondered what would happen if I had nothing to round up, either because I’d written about it already or (and it does happen) I had done nothing worth blogging about. Step forward The last bit of random stuff and padding. This month – Scotland reacts to Trump, from the sublime to the ridiculous. Scotland is not impressed.

  • The sublime – Karine Polwart at Celtic Connections with I burn but I am not consumed, a poetic mixture of spoken word and song considering Donald’s Scottish roots. Favourite line: You who see nothing but your own face in the sheen of the Hudson River. (Sorry, I couldn’t get this BBC video to embed).
  • The ridiculous – Just 19 Incredibly Scottish Signs Telling Donald Trump He’s A Bawbag (Buzzfeed). Not for the easily offended. Translations available on request. (As a start, baw = ball. I’m sure you can work out the rest.)

So that was January in Glasgow. Normal service will be resumed shortly.

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Glasgow at dusk

When we have nothing better to do on a Sunday afternoon, and when it’s not raining which restricts things quite a lot, we enjoy taking a walk around our beautiful city. At this time of the year, the days are still very short and some of the grander buildings are lit up before we get home. These lovely examples are all in Glasgow’s West End near where we live.

Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery:

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Maryhill Burgh Halls:

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Kelvinside Academy:

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Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

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I love this view of Kelvingrove emerging from the trees, it almost looks like a fairy tale palace. Last week, we looked down on it from Glasgow University – this week, we could look up at the Uni from the gallery. Two very handsome buildings!

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Our visit to Kelvingrove today was to see the new exhibition, The Essence of Beauty: 500 years of Italian Art. This displays about 40 of Glasgow’s collection of over 150 Italian works from the 14th to the 19th centuries, most of which where bequeathed to the city by Archibald McLellan in 1854. I loved it, and agree with Cate Devine’s review in the Herald that:
“One of the highlights – perhaps even the jewel in the crown – is presented early on. The Adoration of the Magi, painted in the 16th century by an unknown painter now known as the Glasgow Master, has had its coat of brown varnish removed and now its blues and reds and golds glow – the wise men’s crowns in particular almost 3D in their clarity.”
This is particularly fascinating, because you can watch a short time lapse video of the restoration and see the painting emerge from the shadows into its full glory.

Of course, being Glasgow, there had to be one dissenter from the general praise in the visitors’ book who opined that the exhibition wasn’t worth £5 because you could see better in Rome for nothing. And being Glasgow, future visitors did not hesitate to point out the cost of the air fare and hotel bill you would need to pay to get there. Personally, I thought it was wonderful and well worth the money. The exhibition runs till August so plenty time to see it.

When we went upstairs to the rest of the gallery, one of the regular organ recitals was underway and it was lovely to wander round with the music in the background. In this view of the interior, the organ is on the right:

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I love the exhibition of heads that hangs over one of the staircases. They look quite sinister here:

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Every time, I spot some different expressions. I’ve decided this one is my favourite:

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The final thing we looked at was a small exhibition about Anne Frank, mounted by Anne Frank Scotland, which only runs till April 17th but you can request it for your own organisation. No matter how many times I read about this, it still feels unbelievable that it could happen so it’s important to tell the story again and again.

Other things that happened today – it took us forever to cross Great Western Road for the very worthy reason that we had to wait for hundreds of bikers to pass on the annual Yorkhill Easter Egg Run which raises money for the local children’s hospital. Some of them certainly dress up for the occasion:

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And it wouldn’t be a Marsh outing without food, would it? A very nice roast lunch (nut for me, pork for him) was consumed in the Curlers. This has been a very enjoyable Easter Sunday which almost makes up for having to work tomorrow!